“I didn’t expect history to feel this alive.” That’s what I thought as I stepped into the shaded courtyard of Degas House on Esplanade Avenue. The air smelled faintly of magnolia and old wood, as if time itself had taken a deep, contented breath.
The house stood quiet and dignified, oak trees arching overhead in a canopy that seemed to whisper Creole secrets. Walking through the rooms where Edgar Degas lived for several months in 1872–73, I felt the gentle weight of his presence. The walls held light differently here—soft, filtered, imbued with creative possibility. I paused in what used to be his studio and thought, “The kind of shift he made here isn’t just about art—it’s about finding a new direction.”
Breakfast was served in the historic dining room. The aroma of freshly baked French-style omelets, seasonal fruit, and crisp pastries carried warmth from the cheerful kitchen. I sipped dark roasted coffee as I bit into a fluffy omelet dotted with local vegetables—the eggs were tender, the veggies bright and savory, the pastry still flakey on the edges. Each sip and bite felt thoughtfully placed, as if honoring the artist’s own early mornings.
After eating, I joined a guided tour led by one of Degas’s great-grandnieces. Listening to her recount how the painter created his first Impressionist work in New Orleans, I wandered through restored parlors, his bedroom, and the courtyard where brush met canvas. I remembered thinking, “Some turns happen quietly, in the rooms we don’t yet know.”
Before I left, I lingered by the front steps, watching oak leaves drift in the morning sun. The house didn’t shout its importance—it just held it, the way true art always does.
Degas House At a Glance
- Drive time from French Quarter: About 10 minutes
- Address: 2306 Esplanade Avenue, New Orleans, LA 70119
- Best Time to Visit: Mornings, for breakfast and quieter museum rooms
- Vibe: Quietly historic, intimate, cultured
- Highlights: Original rooms where Degas painted, guided family-led tours, shaded courtyard
- Facilities: Free gated parking, Wi-Fi, private breakfast room, courtyard seating
- Cost: Accommodation ranges seasonally; museum tour often included for guests
- Hours: Check-in typically 3 pm, breakfast served weekends 8–10 am; tours by reservation—morning times preferred
- Food Nearby: Close to Cafe Degas (French bistro), plus classic New Orleans spots along Esplanade and in Tremé
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