“I don’t remember the last time a road made me feel like I was in a painting.” That moment hit me halfway through the Tunnel of Trees, when a gust of wind sent golden leaves swirling around the car like they’d been choreographed. Harbor Springs knows how to quiet a person down. It’s the kind of town where you drive a little slower, linger over breakfast, and let the view do most of the talking. I came with a loose plan and left wondering if I should’ve stayed longer.
Must-see if you are a first-time visitor:
- Downtown Harbor Springs – I always tell first-timers to start with a stroll downtown. You’ll find unique shops, art galleries, and my favorite ice cream stops all within walking distance.
- Little Traverse Bay – If you like the water as much as I do, you’ve got to get out on the bay. Whether you sail, paddleboard, or just dip your toes in, the water is unbelievably clear.
- Harbor Point – I’ve walked along the edge just to admire the historic homes and lake views. You can’t drive in (it’s gated), but you can definitely appreciate it from the outside.
- Thorne Swift Nature Preserve – This is my go-to for a peaceful hike. You’ll walk shaded trails, see the lake from a boardwalk, and maybe spot a few birds if you’re lucky.
More Things to Do in Harbor Springs, Michigan
Tunnel of Trees
There’s no better introduction to Harbor Springs than the Tunnel of Trees. This winding, narrow road hugs Lake Michigan’s edge, flanked by dense hardwoods that arch overhead like a cathedral. I drove it with the windows cracked, the scent of leaves and lake air drifting in. Every curve felt like a postcard—peeks of shoreline between trees, old cottages tucked into hillsides, and the occasional deer darting just out of sight. “Don’t rush this,” I kept telling myself, as if I had anywhere else to be.
Ski or Hike the Slopes Year-Round at Nub's Nob
Even in the off-season, Nub’s Nob has its own kind of energy. This locally loved ski hill is no-frills in the best way. I walked around the base area and imagined it mid-winter—kids bundled up, hot cocoa steam in the air, skis clacking in the distance. The lodge smelled faintly of pine and coffee, even empty. There’s something about ski places in summer that feels a little secretive, like they’re sleeping giants just waiting for snow.
Dine in Style at The New York, a Historic Harbor Springs Favorite
For lunch, I settled into New York Restaurant in downtown Harbor Springs. It felt classy but unpretentious—white linens and warm wood, locals chatting softly over wine. I ordered the Great Lakes whitefish, lightly pan-seared, with lemon butter and sautéed spinach. The fish was flaky and rich, kissed with citrus, and the spinach carried just enough garlic to make it sing. I paired it with a glass of dry Riesling and sat for a while longer than I needed to. “I’m not in a hurry today,” I thought, watching sailboats glide past the windows.
Start Your Day Right at Sam's Graces Cafe with Fresh-Baked Goodness
Before leaving town, I stopped at Sam’s Graces Café, the kind of bakery-meets-brunch spot you dream about finding on the road. Inside, it smelled like brown sugar and espresso. I ordered a cinnamon roll the size of my palm and a latte with oat milk and honey. The roll was soft in the center, with a caramelized edge that stuck sweetly to my fingers. I ate it slowly at a table near the window, where light filtered through flower boxes. People came in in waves—friends, cyclists, a woman with her golden retriever. It felt like a town gathering spot that didn’t need to try too hard.
Harbor Springs At a Glance
- Drive Time from Traverse City: ~2 hours north
- Vibe: Lakeside calm with old-school charm
- Highlights: Scenic drives, ski hill charm, slow food, small-town warmth
- Best Time to Visit: Fall for foliage along Tunnel of Trees; winter for skiing
- Cost: Mid-range; meals and lodging are cozy but quality
- Food Tip: Don’t skip the whitefish at New York Restaurant or the cinnamon roll at Sam’s Graces
- Local Secret: Weekday mornings at Sam’s Graces are quieter—go early and linger
Travel Tips: Best Time to Visit
I’ve visited all year long, but if it’s your first time, I’d suggest going from late spring to early fall—May through October. That’s when the water’s warm, the town is buzzing, and everything from outdoor dining to boating is in full swing. But honestly, fall is magical too. I’ve caught the leaves turning and even stumbled into local harvest festivals. If you’re into snow sports, winter’s great. You’ll find ski resorts close by and a downtown that feels like something out of a postcard.
How to Get There
- If you are traveling by car: I usually drive in from Petoskey—it’s just about 35 minutes north on M-119. If you’re coming from the Mackinac Bridge, expect about an hour and a half of scenic driving. Trust me, it’s a beautiful ride.
- By Air: I’ve flown into Pellston Regional Airport (PLN) before—only 30 minutes away and super convenient. If you’re okay with a bit more drive time, you can also land at Traverse City’s Cherry Capital Airport (TVC), which is about 2 hours out.
- By Boat: I’ve met folks who sailed right into the Harbor Springs Municipal Marina. If you’ve got a boat, you’ll love docking here—it’s scenic and right in the heart of things.
Where to Stay
- The Highlands at Harbor Springs – I stayed here one winter and loved having skiing, dining, and cozy rooms all in one place. You’ll find plenty to do year-round, from golf to mountain biking.
- Pine Cottage Bed & Breakfast – This place feels like a step back in time—in the best way. If you’re into historic charm and warm hospitality, you’ll love waking up here to a homemade breakfast.
- Stafford’s Pier Restaurant & Lodging – I’ve had dinner here with a waterfront view, and the rooms are just as special. You’ll be just steps from downtown shops and all the action.
Final Thoughts
Harbor Springs doesn’t ask you to do much—just to notice. The sway of trees above a country road. The steam rising off your coffee. The way lake air feels different in your lungs. I left feeling like I’d stepped into a quieter version of life, and I carried that stillness with me long after the drive home.
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