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Dinner at The Cookhouse
That evening I dined at The Cookhouse, a cozy spot with panoramic windows and views of the tree-lined coast. I had the cedar plank salmon, served with roasted root vegetables and a tart cranberry glaze. It was warm and woodsy and exactly what Alaska should taste like. A couple near me ordered crab bisque, and the aroma alone could’ve been its own course. "No matter what you eat here, it comes with the flavor of place," I thought, as the light shifted golden across the horizon.
Hoonah At a Glance
- Access Point: Cruise port or small plane from Juneau (~30 mins)
- Vibe: Cultural, coastal, sacred and small-town
- Highlights: Tlingit history, wildlife sightings, local seafood, scenic boardwalk
- Best Time to Visit: Late spring through early fall for cruise access and weather
- Cost: Moderate; most experiences are walkable and free to explore, meals ~$15–30
- Hours: Shops and restaurants operate with ship schedules; generally 9 a.m. – 5 p.m.
- Address Base: Begin at Icy Strait Point boardwalk
Travel Tips: Best Time to Visit
From my own trip, I’d say May through September is your best window. You’ll get the longest days, mildest weather, and the best shot at spotting whales, bears, and bald eagles in their element. I visited in June and had more daylight than I knew what to do with. Summer also brings a buzz to Icy Strait Point—when cruise ships dock, the little harbor comes alive, but it still keeps that laid-back, local feel. Trust me, you’ll enjoy the energy without the crowds of bigger Alaskan ports.
How to Get There
- Flying in? I flew into Juneau International Airport (JNU) and hopped on a 30-minute flight with Alaska Seaplanes. It’s quick, scenic, and honestly part of the adventure. You’ll be flying over islands and fjords the whole way.
- Taking the ferry? The Alaska Marine Highway System offers seasonal service, and I loved how peaceful it was. If you’re not in a rush, the ferry’s a beautiful, budget-friendly way to travel and soak in the views.
- Cruising in? Many cruises now stop at Icy Strait Point, just a mile from town. I talked to folks who came ashore for the day and were blown away by how much they could see—whales, rainforest trails, and local art all in one stop.
Where to Stay
- Icy Strait Lodge – I stayed here and found it super welcoming. The rooms are cozy, and the staff helped me book a bear-watching tour that I’ll never forget. It’s rustic but full of character—just what you’d want in a place like Hoonah.
- Hoonah Hideout Cabins – If you’re after privacy and that deep-in-the-woods feel, I’d recommend these cabins. A friend of mine stayed here and couldn’t stop talking about waking up to misty forest views and total quiet.
- Local B&Bs and Guesthouses – One of my favorite parts of staying in Hoonah is the warm, local hospitality. I’ve chatted with travelers who stayed in small, family-run guesthouses and loved the home-cooked meals and storytelling. You’ll leave feeling like you’ve made real connections.
Final Thoughts
Hoonah doesn’t perform—it remembers. It teaches without lecturing. With every boat horn in the harbor and every carved symbol in cedar, it reminded me that some places don’t need reinvention. They just need to be witnessed. I left with spruce jelly in my bag, salt in my hair, and a deep sense that I'd stood on a shore where the past is still very much alive.